propagation
In this article, I share some of my favourite propagation tips for herbs, roses, shrubs, and seeds
Herbs - the propagation of perennial herbs can be increased by cuttings or division. Plants such as rosemary and thyme can be taken in July and August from half ripe side shoots, 2” – 4” long in 50/50 compost and sand and kept in an enclosed environment. If you do not have a frame or propagator place the pot close to your house as this is 2 degrees warmer than planted further away. Bay, lavender, rosemary, sage and thyme can also be increased by cutting taken in September of 4” – 8” long inserted directly into a nursery bed in the open. Chives however can be divided every three years in Spring and in Autumn. Mint can be taken from rhizomes which are the roots of the plant, the woody parent plant can then be discarded.
Roses – to increase your roses, take cuttings in August and September, 10” – 12” long. You should take the cutting from a node or leaf joint as this is where the hormones are stored. Make a cut just below the node and sever. The top of the cutting should be angled to displace any moisture from the cut and to prevent rotting. (This is also an indication of which way up the cutting should be inserted into the ground). Waddle a garden cane 4” deep and drop a chip sized piece of raw potato into the hole, insert the cutting into the same hole and firm into place. (The starch from the potato helps to form a callous from which fine rootlets will develop). Do this with several cuttings and a positive strike rate will hopefully occur. These can then be transplanted into their flowering position the following spring when they have a good root system and new growth appears. You will increase your stock for the sum total of nothing.
Shrubs – shrubs such as Box (Buxus Sempervirens) and many others can be taken in June or July 2” – 4” long. Make your cut at a leaf joint then remove the lower leaves then pinch out the growing tip, this then signals the hormones at the base of the cut to forms a callous, from this the rootlets will form. You can use compost but if you have access to a molehill (an umptitump) and mix this with sharp sand 50/50, this is a perfect growing medium for cuttings. By dipping the bottom end of your cuttings in water then into custard powder – yes custard powder this will help the process along, the vanilla aiding root formation. Plant close together in a 2 litre pot, leave until spring before potting on. The total cost of this process in nil.
Seed Propagation – sow annuals which are bedding plants or vegetables into a seed tray with compost. As the second set of leaves develop carefully transplant into prepared trays of compacted grass clippings and water liberally. Place your plants in the greenhouse or cold frame or any closed environment and watch in wonder how these tiny seedlings develop. The moisture from the grass clippings and the heat generated from the decomposition of the above will astound you, they will be like a hot little bun in your hands. No compost will be need throughout. As an added bonus, no root disturbance will occur when transplanting into their final flowering position. The grass will continue to provide heat, moisture and nutrients as they grow. This has been a well tried and tested way of growing bedding plants in a truly positive way, therefore showing that there is no requirement for the extended use of compost as grass cuttings serve these requirements perfectly. The only costs here are a small bag of compost and a packet of seeds.
Photo by Sushobhan Badhai on Unsplash
